Happy Father’s Day!
Today, I made fried chicken for Mr. Amiable Taster, the wonderful father of my (OK–our) two children. I have to give the man some credit…
Back when we were a dual income family, I purchased Thomas Keller’s newest cookbook, Ad Hoc at Home. I had been meaning to review this Papa Bear of a cookbook (weighing in at slightly more than five pounds!!) A friend had lent me his and I had to have one for myself. I raved about it to my sister, who also picked one up.
This book is perfect for a Father’s Day review as Keller’s father makes a cameo appearance early in the front matter. The story goes, after a lengthy estrangement, Keller and his father resolved their differences and spent the rest of the elder Keller’s days making up for lost time. After Keller began the Ad Hoc project, his father died. He writes lovingly of having the honor to cook his father’s last meal and gives us a menu–including all the details.
Best known as the proprietor of nine stellar gastronomic establishments in New York and California, Keller has authored three cookbooks, including The French Laundry Cookbook, Bouchon, and Under Pressure: Cooking Sous Vide, where he de-mystifies the vacume-bag cooking technique. Ad Hoc is a departure from Keller’s other volumes, which require more than just sharp knives and a great set of All Clad. This book is all about comfort food.
My sister and I have made several of the recipes in Keller’s book. We’ve both made the blueberry cobbler (p 296) which coincidentally happened to be on the menu of the last meal she made my father at home before he went to the hospital–never to return. Dad was a big fan of cobbler. It was the only dish he ever insisted I learn to make. Keller’s version is excellent. Believe me, the dish tastes better for breakfast the next morning. Be forewarned, the top crust of this dish is of the cakey variety. I happen to prefer a little more crunch to my cobbler, but wouldn’t turn a warm bowl of this down.
Today, I made the buttermilk fried chicken ( p 16) for Father’s Day. A chief complaint of many of Keller’s recipes is that they are long and involved–often taking hours of prep. You will find the same with this recipe–but believe me–the results are worth it. I took advantage of a 40 percent sale on Perdue at my market this week and bought the smallest whole chickens in the place. (Keller suggests 2.5 to 3 pound birds). I also splurged on a bag of lemons as the brine calls for five lemons, along with 24 bay leaves. The house smelled heavenly as the brine was boiling.
Keller does a great deal to instruct in this book. He offers several lessons on topics from blanching to trussing a chicken. For this mission, I had to gather up my pluck to conquer the 10-piece cut. I waited until the children had left the house so I wouldn’t embarrass myself. (Senator, this was not Ten Easy Pieces and you sir, are no Jack Nicholson). But I digress… Suffice it to say that I emerged victorious–but it wasn’t pretty. The 10-piece cut on 2 birds only yielded 19 pieces–but who’s counting. Thankfully I can always make stock of what was left.
The results were quickly eaten. I BARELY had time to snap this shot of the platter by the pool. (One does not get in the way of a man’s growling stomach on Father’s Day.) Michael Ruhlman says the fried chicken recipe alone is worth the hefty price of the book ($50 MSRP) and he’s not lying. The bird was moist and juicy–just dripping down the chin. I brined for exactly 12 hours and could taste a hint of bay leaves. The crust was poifect.
The verdict: a unanimous thumbs up. My daughter said, “I gotta make this when I get back to college.” Unexpected surprise: I have additional kitchen street-cred with my mother in law (a butcher’s daughter), who was impressed that I started with whole chickens–all thanks to Keller.
This book will take home cooks to the next level. It is a visually pleasing to thumb through and you will dog ear many future adventures. Scattered throughout are “lightbulb” ideas that impart Keller’s kitchen wisdom. The price is a bit steep but your children will ask you to will this book to them. Make sure you mark it up with a pencil and make it your own. Ad Hoc will remain on my culinary joyride list for many months to come.
I may actually try frying after reading this great post. You’re a great writer. I’ve been known to fry falafel, so I guess I could try chicken! I’ve always steered away from the hassle of disposing of used oil after frying, though Any ideas?
I’ve always sensed that Mr. Fling knows what he likes! 😉
Cannot wait to try this – but may skip cutting up the chicken myself. I might lose a finger. LOVE the book!!! Great writing too.
Particularly nicely written with some indescribably great something about the last paragraph. The turn of the phrase was particularly satisfying to read.
Great picture of that chicken and I like the small photos of Keller and his cookbook, too. Nicely done, Echo!
Thanks Marti! I had leftovers for lunch. Fire up the convection oven at 400-degrees for 15 minutes and the chicken is still moist! Whilst wolfing down leftovers, Mr. Fling gave his blessing for putting this one in my regular line-up.